2010 Chevy Traverse 3.6 Belt Diagram
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The Belt Tensioner pully(bearing) on my 07 is going bad. Looks like the whole tensioner assembly might have to come off to replace it ? Any tricks to doing this ? Anyone replaced it themselves ? Can just the pully be replaced ? I've searched all the forums, but don't see any discussion.
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Some online parts houses show the pulley can be purchased as a separate item. Diagrams suggest that the tensioner assembly must be removed from the front of the engine to access the bolt that holds the pulley onto the assembly. There are only two bolts holding the tensioner (#2) to the engine block. If you can't gain access to the tensioner from above, you should be able to remove it through the RF wheel well.
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Be sure you DO NOT tighten the tensioner bolts (#3) too much - it's an aluminum engine block. I couldn't find a torque spec for these bolts, but I believe it won't be much more than the 12 Nm torque spec of the water pump bolts. Here's a handy conversion chart you can use for torque specs.
http://www.unitconversion.org/unit_converter/torque-ex.html
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for the replies thus far. The illustrations in the last post helped. I was able to get at the belt/pullys from the passengers wheel well. But it's almost impossible to see the bolts on the tensioner assembly, or get up there with a wrench. I did manage to get a wrench on the bolt that holds the tensioner pully on, and backed it off quite a bit. But it doesn't feel like I'll be able to get the pully off the assembly. So I didn't mess with it. I'd really like to know how the shops do it. Maybe they take off some of the other pullys first to get the assembly off. Any thoughts ?
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Here is the torque specs from the factory service manual for the tensioner bolts.
Tensioner Bolts
Tighten
50 N·m (37 lb ft)
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Don't y'all have a calibrated elbow? 
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ls973800 said:
Here is the torque specs from the factory service manual for the tensioner bolts.
Tensioner Bolts
Tighten
50 N·m (37 lb ft)
The man with the book comes through! :thumb:
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So here's what I've learned today. The Tensioner assembly on the 2007 Acadias( maybe other years) have two bolts that hold it to the engine block, and a third bold that goes through the tensioner arm that looks like it holds the arm to the rest of the assembly. The assembly available today(p/n: 12626644) DOES NOT have the third bolt they're pressed together( I've verified that, seen the part at the dealership). Thus the whole assembly has to be replaced and it takes three hours of labor at the dealership. My question now is: if I remove the third bolt which presumably holds the arm to the rest of the assembly could it be spring loaded or am I ok to remove it. Then I can replace the pully and put back on the assembly ?
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eriopelle said:
... My question now is: if I remove the third bolt which presumably holds the arm to the rest of the assembly could it be spring loaded or am I ok to remove it. Then I can replace the pully and put back on the assembly ?
I'm going to say that the spring is inside the assembly behind that bolt and it is pre-loaded. Might be the reason they changed the design and left the bolt out. Too many folks were trying to remove the assembly from there and ... ... BOING!!
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
To followup : I removed the third bolt. It goes through to the engine block like the other two bolts. Nice and quiet now. Thanks everyone for your help and diagrams/specs.
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ls973800 said:
Believe it or not, the specs are the same for FWD or AWD!
LMAO!
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eriopelle said:
To followup : I removed the third bolt. It goes through to the engine block like the other two bolts. Nice and quiet now. Thanks everyone for your help and diagrams/specs.
Great!! BTW, I looked again at the tonkin drawing in the link provided to you. Seems someone forgot to draw a line from the center bolt to a boss (threaded mounting point) on the engine block. Makes sense now that all 3 bolts should be removed to change the tensioner.
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I started changing out the serpentine belt, tensioner assembly, and idler pulley. I'm having trouble removing the idler pulley because the bolt is too long. Its the one that secures the pulley and alternator. I contacts part of the frame once its fully backed out. There is no clearance to move it out of the way. Is there some trick I'm missing here? Has anyone else run into this issue?
I was thinking that maybe I need to loosen the other alternator mount bolt to swing the unit out of the way for clearance. But I cannot see the other bolt from them bottom.
Source: https://www.acadiaforum.net/threads/belt-tensioner-replacement.13379/
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